While traditional studies of dress and jewelry have tended to focus purely on reconstruction or descriptions of style, chronology and typology, the social context of costume is now a major research area in archaeology. This refocusing is largely a result of the close relationship between dress and three currently popular topics: identity, bodies and material culture. Not only does dress constitute an important means by which people integrate and segregate to form group identities, but interactions between objects and bodies, quintessentially illustrated by dress, can also form the basis of much wider symbolic systems. Consequently, archaeological understandings of clothing shed light on some of the fundamental aspects of society, hence our intentionally unconditional title. Dress and Society illustrates the range of current archaeological approaches to dress using a number of case studies drawn from prehistoric to post-medieval Europe. Individually, each chapter makes a strong contribution in its own field whether through the discussion of new evidence or new approaches to classic material. Presenting the eight papers together creates a strong argument for a theoretically informed and integrated approach to dress as a specific category of archaeological evidence, emphasizing that the study of dress not only draws openly on other disciplines, but is also a sub-discipline in its own right. However, rather than delimiting dress to a specialist area of research we seek to promote it as fundamental to any holistic archaeological understanding of past societies.

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Rosie Weetch; Toby F Martin

Martin, T. F.; Weech, R.;

Casemate Publishers and Book Distributors, LLC

Casemate Publishers & Book Distributors, LLC, Oxford, 2016

United Kingdom and Ireland, United Kingdom

Oxford [England, 2017

Havertown, 2017

1, 20170131

lg3012890

producers:
Acrobat Distiller 8.0.0 (Windows)

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While Traditional Studies Of Dress And Jewellery Have Tended To Focus Purely On Reconstruction Or Descriptions Of Style, Chronology And Typology, The Social Context Of Costume Is Now A Major Research Area In Archaeology. This Refocusing Is Largely A Result Of The Close Relationship Between Dress And Three Currently Popular Topics: Identity, Bodies And Material Culture. Not Only Does Dress Constitute An Important Means By Which People Integrate And Segregate To Form Group Identities, But Interactions Between Objects And Bodies, Quintessentially Illustrated By Dress, Can Also Form The Basis Of Much Wider Symbolic Systems. Consequently, Archaeological Understandings Of Clothing Shed Light On Some Of The Fundamental Aspects Of Society, Hence Our Intentionally Unconditional Title. Dress And Society Illustrates The Range Of Current Archaeological Approaches To Dress Using A Number Of Case Studies Drawn From Prehistoric To Post-medieval Europe. Individually, Each Chapter Makes A Strong Contribution In Its Own Field Whether Through The Discussion Of New Evidence Or New Approaches To Classic Material. Presenting The Eight Papers Together Creates A Strong Argument For A Theoretically Informed And Integrated Approach To Dress As A Specific Category Of Archaeological Evidence, Emphasising That The Study Of Dress Not Only Draws Openly On Other Disciplines, But Is Also A Sub-discipline In Its Own Right. However, Rather Than Delimiting Dress To A Specialist Area Of Research We Seek To Promote It As Fundamental To Any Holistic Archaeological Understanding Of Past Societies--publisher Description. Introduction: Dress And Society / Toby F. Martin And Rosie Weetch -- Combination, Composition And Context : Readdressing British Middle Bronze Age Ornament Hoards (c. 1400-1100 Cal. Bc) / Neil Wilkin -- Appendix 2.1: Middle Bronze Age Ornament Hoards From Britain -- Appendix 2.2: The Four Most Common Ornament Types And Sub-types For Hoards Of All Metal Composition Types -- Personal Objects And Personal Identity In The Iron Age : The Case Of The Earliest Brooches / Sophia Adams -- Active Brooches : Theorising Brooches Of The Roman North-west (first To Third Centuries Ad) / Tatiana Ivleva -- The Roman Military Belt : A Status Symbol And Object Of Fashion / Stefanie Hoss -- Middle Anglo-saxon Dress Accessories In Life And Death : Expressions Of A Worldview / Alexandra Knox -- Best Gowns, Kerchiefs And Pantofles : Gifts Of Apparel In The North-east Of England In The Sixteenth Century / Eleanor Standley -- Redressing The Balance : Dress Accessories Of The Non-elites In Early Modern England / Natasha Awais-dean -- Cultural Presumptions And Curatorial Context : Reassessing The Highland Brooch Of Early Modern Scotland / Stuart Campbell. Edited By Toby F. Martin And Rosie Weetch. Includes Bibliographical References.

While traditional studies of dress and jewelry have tended to focus purely on reconstruction or descriptions of style, chronology and typology, the social context of costume is now a major research area in archaeology. This refocusing is largely a result of the close relationship between dress and three currently popular identity, bodies and material culture. Not only does dress constitute an important means by which people integrate and segregate to form group identities, but interactions between objects and bodies, quintessentially illustrated by dress, can also form the basis of much wider symbolic systems. Consequently, archaeological understandings of clothing shed light on some of the fundamental aspects of society, hence our intentionally unconditional title.
Dress and Society illustrates the range of current archaeological approaches to dress using a number of case studies drawn from prehistoric to post-medieval Europe. Individually, each chapter makes a strong contribution in its own field whether through the discussion of new evidence or new approaches to classic material. Presenting the eight papers together creates a strong argument for a theoretically informed and integrated approach to dress as a specific category of archaeological evidence, emphasizing that the study of dress not only draws openly on other disciplines, but is also a sub-discipline in its own right. However, rather than delimiting dress to a specialist area of research we seek to promote it as fundamental to any holistic archaeological understanding of past societies.
Table of Contents
1. dress and society
Toby F. Martin and Rosie Weetch
2. Combination, composition and readdressing British Middle Bronze Age ornament hoards (c.1400-1100 cal. BC)
Neil Wilkin
3. Personal objects and personal identity in the Iron the case of the earliest brooches
Sophie Adams
4. Doing brooches: theorising brooches of the Roman Northwest (first to third centuries AD)
Tatiana Ivleva
5. The Roman military belt a status symbol and object of fashion
Stefanie Hoss
6. Middle Anglo-Saxon dress accessories in life and expressions of a worldview
Alexandra Knox
7. Best gowns, kerchiefs and gifts of apparel in the north east of England in the 16th century
Eleanor Standley
8. Redressing the dress accessories of the non-elites in Early Modern England
Natasha Awais-Dean
9. Cultural presumptions and curatorial context reassessing the highland brooch of early modern Scotland
Stuart Campbell

List of Figures and Tables 6
Preface 8
1. Introduction: dress and society 10
2. Combination, composition and context: readdressing British Middle Bronze Age ornament hoards (c. 1400–1100 cal. BC) 23
3. Personal objects and personal identity in the Iron Age: the case of the earliest brooches 57
4. ‘Active brooches’: theorising brooches of the Roman north-west (first to third centuries AD) 78
5. The Roman military belt – a status symbol and object of fashion 103
6. Middle Anglo-Saxon dress accessories in life and death: expressions of a worldview 123
7. ‘Best’ gowns, kerchiefs and pantofles: gifts of apparel in the north-east of England in the sixteenth century 139
8. Redressing the balance: dress accessories of the non-elites in Early Modern England 160
9. Cultural presumptions and curatorial context: reassessing the ‘highland brooch’ of Early Modern Scotland 179

2021-05-23